I found a great old Primus 100. It works well and is very nice. But, how can I make it more quiet for use in camp in the early morning ? Thank you for your help!
The Primus 100 stoves are among my favorites. A silent damper cap can make your stove quieter, and also generate a better fuel/air mix for efficient burning.
Best choice is a Primus 4010 silent damper cap. They work super awesome on the 100s.
in England had some of the 4010’s a while back, but they’ve sold out of them now. Watch for a possible (though unlikely) return of the 4010 at Base-Camp sometime in the future, or ask around to some of the stove forums. Perhaps someone there would sell you one of their extras.
Another good choice for a Primus 100 silent damper cap is to fab up a cap adapter I call a spigot plate. I’ve made lots of these over the years. It’s a great newbie brazing project for anyone who wants to work on stoves.
Basically, you take a round piece of sheet metal with a hole in the center and braze a short piece of 5/8” diameter tubing to the middle.
The spigot plate holds the inner cap centered, and the outer cap settles around the inner cap.
You can make the diameter of the sheet metal base to fit either the first or the second ledge in the lipstick burner bell and then just use a regular cap set with the stove.
Good luck on this project. It can be done with hand tools and an electric drill. You don’t need specialized tools.
Here’s a Kolibri kerosene-burning stove I received from a seller in the stove’s native country of Hungary. Kolibri means “Hummingbird”. It’s an attractive little porcelainized stove with very 1950’s or early ’60’s styling.
Just click on any image for a larger picture.
Sadly, while I received two of the original inner caps, no outer cap came with the stove.
Here are some detail shots of the stoves workings.
The on-off valve is missing it’s plastic or bakelite handle. This valve does not control flow rate, only whether the fuel is on or off.
The knob on the front controls the cleaning needle which acts to throttle the stove.
This ceramic knob pump knob is unlikely to be original. It is probably a cabinet door pull. The original would have been a round black sphere.
The stove was disassembled and cleaned.
Here is the cleaning needle/throttle peeking out of the stove body.
Unthreaded and removed.
The unique shaped NRV (Non-Return Valve) from the bottom of the pump tube.
As the stove came without a complete set of silent caps, I made a pair of stainless steel outer silent caps to match the inners. The number and size of exit holes and the general shape and size of the outer caps I based on inspections of photos of complete stoves researched from the web.
The fabricated outer caps worked well. Strong full flame. Note in the photo below that I repaired the chipped porcelain around the pump tube mount with matching white epoxy paint, built up in layers and smooth and polished with ultra-fine abrasives and polish.
And a nice simmer.
But, I also liked the performance of the stove with this 3D laser-printed BernieDawg prototype cap.
This is a late-in-the-series Optimus 11. This stove has never been fueled or fired. The spindle knob is not original to the stove. The knob form on the spindle is correct for the period, but the shaft is a round end that I consider mechanically squaring so that it could be used with the square spindle on the stove.