I’ve had this little Borde stove for some time. But, it came without a pot stand. I put this pot stand together from stainless steel sheet. The sheet is 0.032″ thick. The legs are from stainless steel tube 1/4″ in diameter. The pot support rods are 5mm stainless steel rod. All the stainless is 304. I made 1/4″ long plugs of some of the rod which I TiG welded into the ends of the pot support legs. The 1/4″ tubing legs are silver brazed to the sheet sides. The stand forms a triangle about 5″ long per side.
After all the fabbing work was done, I gave the whole thing a polish up to make it look pretty. You can see the stand in use in a YouTube video at my BernieDawg Cinema channel: https://youtu.be/I_GQG8TbO_s
It works great and folds down small. A-OK by me. You can click on the images for bigger views. Maybe this will give you some ideas or inspire you to try to make something for your stoves. Gear-building is fun!
This gallery contains 5 photos.
1920’s-ish, Click on an image to see it bigger, contact me for better resolution images
Here’s a Kolibri kerosene-burning stove I received from a seller in the stove’s native country of Hungary. Kolibri means “Hummingbird”. It’s an attractive little porcelainized stove with very 1950’s or early ’60’s styling.
Just click on any image for a larger picture.
Sadly, while I received two of the original inner caps, no outer cap came with the stove.
Here are some detail shots of the stoves workings.
The knob on the front controls the cleaning needle which acts to throttle the stove.
The stove was disassembled and cleaned.
Unthreaded and removed.
The unique shaped NRV (Non-Return Valve) from the bottom of the pump tube.
As the stove came without a complete set of silent caps, I made a pair of stainless steel outer silent caps to match the inners. The number and size of exit holes and the general shape and size of the outer caps I based on inspections of photos of complete stoves researched from the web.
The fabricated outer caps worked well. Strong full flame. Note in the photo below that I repaired the chipped porcelain around the pump tube mount with matching white epoxy paint, built up in layers and smooth and polished with ultra-fine abrasives and polish.
But, I also liked the performance of the stove with this 3D laser-printed BernieDawg prototype cap.
I’m sure you’ve received this question before, but I’ll go ahead and ask. Do you have a silent damper for the Optimus 111 stove (hiker) with the “roarer” burner?
“Bugged by Noise”
Thanks for your question and your interest in my silent cap products. I *have* received this question quite a few times.
I’ve heard you have lots of documents in your collection. I have a Coleman 345 marine stove and I would really like to get the instructions for the operation of the stove. Do you have such a thing?
Hi Coleman Searcher
You bet! I have the instructions for both the 345 (kerosene) and the 348 (denatured alcohol) versions of these awesome old marine stoves. Here is the paperwork for your stove:
(just click on the thumbnail images for the larger versions)
I don’t believe that these sorts of documents on old stoves should be kept behind membership requirements or pay-to-view mechanisms on the internet just to promote the sites that hold them hostage. I believe that the free exchange of information without strings attached is what best promotes the collection and preservation of old stoves. Isn’t that what the internet is supposed to be about?
I hope this helps you with your stove. It’s a nice one!
UPDATE! Here are the instructions for the Coleman 348 alcohol burning version of this marine stove set.
large 300dpi PDF, about 3MB
Coleman 348 Marine Alcohol Stove Instructions large 300dpi PDF, about 3MB
With some vintage Optimus 8 stoves, there is no nut cast into the fuel feed pipe.
This makes disassembly to service the wick or unclog a fouled fuel line difficult. It is quite possible to break the fuel feed/vaporizer by trying to remove it through applying force to the spindle housing or the the small “stilt” that supports the burner. Then your stove is toast!
Here’s a simple do-it-yourself tool you can make. To remove the fuel feed/vaporizer body from the tank, make a block of wood. Drill a hole through it just the size of the fuel feed tube.
Then, cut it in half lengthwise. A thin-bladed saw such as a bandsaw works well for this so that you remove the least material. You could also use a Japanese pull saw if you don’t have machinery.
Clamp the block around the fuel feed tube in your bench vise or with a big clamp. Turn the tank counter-clockwise by hand to unscrew the vaporizer from the tank.
You can then service a clogged or charred wick, replace the wick or what have you. Enjoy the blue flames from your service work.
Where can I find instructions on how to fit/mount your silent caps on various burners, say like the Svea 123R? Youtube maybe?
Thanks for your BernieDawg cap question.
The instructions for the caps can be found at:
That same link to the instructions can also be found at the main page of each of my product manufacturing pages. (it’s down at the bottom of the text.)
The link can also be found at the end of the description of each cap product at my manufacturers, Shapeways and i.materialise. When you decide to order a silent damper cap product, you can just cut and paste the link into your browser to get to the instructions webpage.
A Burmos 96 stove was sent to me for removal of a badly stuck NRV. After replacement of the NRV there was still leaking going on in the pump tube. I removed the pump while the stove was pressured and added some water in the pump tube. Using a small but strong flashlight, it could be seen there were several locations emitting streams of bubbles around the inside of the pump tube. This was likely caused by poorly drawn brass tubing that left stresses in the tubing back when the stove was made.
The pump tube was pulled and the tube was replaced with one I manufactured to match here in the BD Labs. Those photos follow.
“click” an image to enlarge