PDF copy for better resolution: Manual_Optimus_8R
- – the best way I’ve found to remove NRVs is to put the wrench upright in a vise, put the stove over the wrench, then use strong downward force on the tank to keep the wrench head on the NRV head so it doesn’t skip off the end of the wrench. I demonstrate the technique in this section of one of my YouTube videos: https://youtu.be/2LKsxIYCTko?t=226
- – tighten the NRV just slightly/gently before trying to untighten. This may help to break the brass-to-brass bond if there is no NRV head washer present
- – if you chose to use penetrants… it will do no good at all to put the penetrating oils down the pump tube. The NRV is air and liquid tight sealed inside that pump tube. Instead, use a small brush and reach inside the tank through the fuel filler to apply penetrant to the outsides of the pump tube where it will run down the tube and get into the exposed threads of the NRV that are hanging out at the end of the threaded pump tube end block. That is where you want penetrating oils to assist.
For quite some time I’ve been machining adapters and reproduction parts for vintage stoves. I’ve been doing this on much of my client work as needed. I’ve always taken the if-it-could-be-done-before-it-can-be-done-again approach. As I’m getting a bit older, I thought now would be a good time to start recording some of the measured and *proven* threads or thread approximates I’ve come up with that will work well on vintage stoves.
But… first an important fact to understand. The various companies that made stoves (Optimus, Primus, Radius, even Coleman, etc) DID NOT necessarily conform to established “thread standards” for much of their work. This is especially true of the early standards established by Primus at the end of the 19th century (1890’s). Standardized threads would include the metric system, the British system or the American system. Some of these threads may appear on some stoves. But, for the most part, the threads used on vintage stoves are in-house creations of the production staff at the various firms and DID NOT conform to established standards.
Since Primus was the first to get stoves out there, and because they established a wide-spread international network of stove sellers and stove part houses (think todays franchises for fast food), other manufacturers were pretty much required to adapt their thread forms so that they could sell various parts that would mate with Primus stoves. Doing so meant that a Radius burner would fit perfectly on a Primus stove riser, for example.
So, yeah. I *know* that Sweden adopted the metric system in blah-blah year. Doesn’t matter. Stove threads pretty much ignore thread standards, and, that’s what makes stoving both fun and frustrating.
If you are a hobby machinist, you could make a bundle of money making up stove accessories and adapters for some of these old stoves. Sell them on eBay! I sincerely encourage you to do so. You’d be surprised what stove collectors will pay for a bit of brass properly threaded with compatible threads for their stove.
So, here’s the start of the list. I’ll add to it as I find time and energy. I have notebooks full of thread data. Check back whenever you like or if you need data for your stove restoration project.
Stay tuned for more as I find time. BD
Earlier this Fall season I posted a three-part video series on repairing the Optimus 111B at my YouTube stove channel. The videos cover all the steps you need to take to refurbish a vintage 111B stove back to full operation. There are tons of tricks and tips, and practical knowhow included in these videos which will help you working with the 111B, other members of the 111 family, and stove work in general. The videos are free to watch and require no admission or registration fees to watch them.
Check ’em out!
Here are the links to the 111B series:
Optimus 111B Stove Repair Part 1 – Disassembly
Optimus 111B Stove Repair Part 2 – Parts Reassembly
Optimus 111B Stove Repair Part 3 – Final Assembly and Testing
OR… watch them imbedded right here, right now. You can see a lot more detail if you watch full screen.
These are copyrighted videos and are found exclusively here at my stove blog and at my YouTube stove channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-HRgttvZQQtg7_G0_T6Sqw/
If you see these videos at some other website, they have been stolen and the website moderators/owners are thieves and are in violation of copyright law. Please let me know if you see someone ripping off my hard work for their own benefit – those people who do that sort of stuff are the lowest form of self-serving scum. (Not to be too harsh, or anything.) 😉 Report scumbag thieves to: email@example.com
Is it possible to “heat and air clean” the carbon and other crud from a regulated burner using compressed air and a torch?
Hi Burner Guy
Thanks for your question! Yes! Absolutely, you can clean regulated burners using the manufacturer approved heat and air cleaning method. Like all burners, you’ll want to disassemble the burner, removing the jet, the spindle and the spindle nut.
But, you’ll need to close off the spindle opening.
So how to block the opening at the spindle? What I did was take a spare spindle nut and silver braze a cap on the open end. I just used a slip of brass sheet over the open end and machined it round after the brazing. But, you could leave it rough and all and it would still do the job.
Once threaded into the spindle housing, the modified spindle nut will direct the air through all parts of the burner and out the jet.
(PS – Before anyone asks… yes, this is a very odd burner and is somewhat rare. It was close to hand from a long-term stove project I’m working on. So, yeah, it looks a little different from your everyday standard regulated but the idea is still the same.)
I bought a Swedish Svea 123R factory brand new about four years ago. It’s always had a small candle flame at the jet whenever I turn off the spindle. Do you have any tips you can share about how to fix this? Thanks!
Bert in MO
Thanks for your question. One thing though…
Here’s the lowdown on candle flames on the SVEA 123R.
- Make sure the cleaning needle timing is not the issue. Remove the needle and try the stove without it. If there is still a candle flame without the cleaning needle in the stove, go to #2. If the candle flame goes away… reset the cleaning needle a click deeper into the valve body.
- Remove the spindle nut and the spindle. Check the condition of the cone-shaped end of the spindle. It should be a smooth cone.
It should not have a ring worn into it and it should not have a step or steps worn into it. If it does, then someone has been closing the spindle valve too hard and has damaged the spindle tip. If there is enough material still there (if the damage isn’t too bad), you can chuck the spindle into some sort of spinning tool. A cordless or corded drill will do the trick. A drill press or a lathe is even better. Reshape the cone on the end of the spindle with a fine file and sandpaper while the spindle is spinning in your spinning tool of choice. If you can’t get it fixed because there is not enough material left or the damage is too great, you’ll need to replace the spindle.
- While the spindle is out… examine your spindle graphite. Brand new, spindle graphites should be about 6mm long. If the graphite is less than 3mm long or if it is not shiny and grey, but instead has grey-colored pulpy, woody, or hairy looking material (asbestos?), change it out for a new graphite. The pulpy ones fall apart faster than the solid grey graphites and the pulpy stuff gets in the spindle valve seat so they leak.
- While the spindle is out… clean out the threads of the spindle nut, and the threads in the valve body they mate with, of any graphite residue so it doesn’t end up causing leakage by getting in the your spindle valve. Dental tools work good for thread cleaning. Use some Qtips and clean the spindle valve seat with some solvent or Coleman fuel so the Qtips come out clean. Do a visual inspection of the spindle valve seat inside the valve body using a flashlight. You should see a circle of bright brass with a little hole in the middle. The bright brass is the metal surface your cone-shaped spindle tip seats against. Make sure there’s no debris or goo in there.
- Reassemble everything, with new parts if you are using them, and give it a try without the cleaning needle. No candle flame? Great! Now add in the cleaning needle set to between 3 and 5 clicks into the valve body and top off with the jet. Test again. Should be working fine now.
Happy camping! BD
I found this file on my computer recently. I guess I started this project and got distracted. Do you want to know which cap to get for which stove? Here’s a quick look index!
Omnifuel and Omnifuel 2 – OmniDawg
OmniLite Ti – OmniPup
Multifuel p328896 – DragonTamer
Multifuel EX p328894 – DragonTamer
Himalaya Varifuel p3278 – Minicap w/Legs
Himalaya Multifuel p3288 – Minicap w/Legs
Primus 96 – Midicap or Minicap
Primus 70 & 71 – Minicap
Nova – Dawg-A-Nova
Nova+ – Dawg-A-Nova
Hiker+ – Dawg-A-Nova
Polaris Optifuel – PolarDawg
#96 – Midicap or Minicap
#97 – Midicap or Minicap
#80 – Minicap w/Legs
#99 – Minicap w/Legs
#8 or #8R – Minicap w/Legs
Dragonfly – DragonTamer
XGK EX – XGK Dawg
XGK G – Midicap
XGK GK – Midicap
XGK II – Midicap
Firefly – DragonTamer
#9 – Midicap
#530 – Midicap
Denali – OmniPup
Svea 123 and 123R – Minicap or Minicap w/Legs
Trangia X2 750001 Multifuel Burner by Primus – PolarDawg using isobutane or white gas, the preferred fuels (note: if using kerosene with the PolarDawg on an X2 75001 with the 0.28mm burner, best performance is with the OmniDawg rather than the PolarDawg)
Trangia 780001 Multifuel Burner made by Optimus – Dawg-A-Nova
American Military Stoves
#520 – Midicap
#521 & #523 – Midicap
M-1941, M.1942, M-1950 – Midicap
#527 Coleman Medical Burner – PuppyDawg
Phoebus 725 – “Wide Body”
Enders “Baby Benzin” #9063 & #263 – PuppyDawg
Radius #42 – Minicap
Radius #20 – Minicap
French Vesta 1 and 2 burner stoves – Minicap
Here’s a list of stove part suppliers that I’ve used or know about. As I think on it, I may add more, so check back frequently. This list is current as of June 2020. These suppliers tend to come and go in many cases. If I’ve listed your outfit and you don’t want to be listed just let me know in an email. If you find a dead link or if you know of a link I should add, please let me know by emailing: firstname.lastname@example.org and I’ll try to add, update or remove it as required as soon as possible. Thanks!
- Widget Supply carries tons of Dremel products and Dremel-compatible products, plus dental tools, needle files, cutters, blades, jigs, clamps, abrasives, etc that any stove hobbyist is likely to need. And, at lower than expected prices, too! Highly recommended! Go to their eBay store here: https://www.ebay.com/str/Widget-Supply or their webstore here: https://widgetsupply.com
- Pittman Marine and Stove (Coleman and Amish stove and lantern parts): https://www.ebay.com/str/pitmanmarineandlantern
- 40varga (articulated nipple wrenches) – https://www.ebay.com/usr/40varga
- hammondam (small amount of gaskets Optimus fuel cap gaskets): https://www.ebay.com/usr/hammondam/
- intsource (mostly Britelyt lantern and stove parts) – https://www.ebay.com/usr/intsource/
- Old Coleman Parts (Coleman parts for stoves, lanterns and other gear) – https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/home.php
- A&H – former Optimus USA parts outlet for many years – run by Shirlene – may not be there any more??? – https://www.packstoves.net/default.html
- spinnakerspar Made-In-The-USA parts from eBay seller (Optimus and Svea pips, gaskets, wicks, graphite packing ribbon, and other consumables for small stove repair) – https://www.ebay.com/usr/spinnakerspar/
- Sweden – Fogas – (some stock of old Optimus/Primus parts) – http://www.fogas.se
- Tradera– Sweden – (the Swedish eBay where all the stoves and lanterns live) – https://www.tradera.com/
- Netherlands – Qvist Outdoor Cooking – (lots of great stuff listed at their website, but only ships to EU countries. Find a stove friend in the EU who’ll reship to you?) – https://www.qvist.nl/qvist/branders-lantaarns/brander-onderdelen.html
- Juliands – https://www.ebay.com/str/tilleylampsandprimusstoves
- Kibworth DIY – https://www.ebay.com/str/hootflipflopandflyatkibworthdiy
- Base-Camp – (biggest Optimus/Primus parts house in the world with lots and lots of parts) – http://www.base-camp.co.uk
- The FettleBox – (stove gasket supplier with very comprehensive stock of seals. May be a bit slow on order fulfillment – plan ahead and be patient) – https://fettlebox.co.uk/index.php
- eBay seller terrry123 in the uk – (thin graphite sheet for making spindle packings) – https://www.ebay.com/sch/terrry123/m.html
- hytec (green-colored burner gaskets and sheets of gasket material) – https://www.ebay.com/str/hytec1
- kkn4602 (Korea silent caps and stove parts) – https://www.ebay.com/str/papepopotogether
- lovelantern2014 (lantern and stove parts) –https://www.ebay.com/str/allthatlampparts
- gksk2146-3 (tons of great tools and stove and lantern parts) –https://www.ebay.com/sch/gksk2146-3/m.html?item
- philbeagle (British Military #12 Army Stove silent cap and other stove/lantern parts) – https://www.ebay.com/usr/philbeagle/
- simonchantwus_gmail (PentaWrenches, stove and lantern parts) – https://www.ebay.com/str/supercorselantern
- chi5972 (stove and lantern fabricated parts) –
- kitelamp (sells remakes of various hard-to-find stove and lantern accessories) with an eBay page – https://www.ebay.com/str/kitelamp And a website – https://www.kitelamp.com
- ama3736 eBay seller (sells a small number of parts and graphite packing for many stoves) https://www.ebay.com/str/BOTEXX-TOOLS/